Advanced "Run & Gun" Hunting

Crow Staff Advisor Skip Woody has been hunting crows since 1956 and has managed to take nearly 60,000 birds during that time using the "Run & Gun" method. Read further to find out the techniques Skip has successfully used in a lifetime of hunting the wily crow.

Introduction

If you hunt crows, chances are you employ one of two methods to bag these elusive birds: the Flyway Method or what is commonly referred to as 'Run and Gun'. My emphases here will be on the art of 'Run and Gun' with the hope that I can improve your success by explaining some 'tricks of the trade' that I've learned over the 45 years I've been using this approach.

I define success; by the way, by the number of birds you take two ways: the total for the day and the average number you take per stand. I don't think any thing here is going to come as a revelation to anyone, but possibly there will be some tidbit that you can use to 'tweak' what you are currently doing to produce a higher TBD (Total Body Count). There are many aspects to the experience of crow hunting including fun, camaraderie, communing with nature, ephemeral this and ephemeral that. BUT, the Prime Directive is the attainment of a high TBC. Everything I try to do during a 'stand' is designed to produce the best possible TBC and here are some thoughts on that subject.

First, let me just dispatch of some basic equipment issues that I employ and think are important. A good upland shell with 7 1/2 or 8's is the ticket and one that is copper or nickel plated even better. Best choke is Imp. Cyl or Mod. with 24 to 28 inch barrels. I prefer 26. Stay away from pump guns and double barrel guns. Both require too much motion to operate. Crows will see the motion associated with constant loading and reaching for shells. I prefer any automatic that holds at least 4 and preferably 5 shells. I will speak to the appropriate apparel in the "Cover and Concealment" section below.

I mentioned earlier the importance of keeping up with the average number of birds bagged per stand. This is the best indicator of how well you are doing those things you must do to be a successful R&G'er. I have put those things into five categories in the order of importance. First, is picking the right place to have a stand. Second, is your "cover and concealment". Third, is using the right call or caller. Forth, you must be a reasonably good shot AND the people with you should be also. Lastly, once you know the direction the birds are coming from, it is important how you and your partners 'manage' the oncoming targets.

(1) Picking the best place to hide. Ideally, the best days for a successful shoots are ones that are windless and reasonably dry. Generally, crows come in about the height of the tallest trees. Tall trees are acceptable IF there is plenty of space between them so birds can navigate below the canopy and you have low cover (5 to 12 feet) to get hidden. The ideal cover has tree height at 20 to 45 feet high, with some openings in the canopy with plenty of low cover. Stay away from any cover that is too high or too dense, and don't stand in the sunlight if possible. Don't worry about trying to see or hear crows before making a stand. Find the place that offers the best 'shooting' cover and then call them to you. Crows are everywhere and they have excellent hearing. On a windless day, you can call them from great distances. Stands should be at least 3/4 miles apart or more so you don't call the same crows over again.

(2) Cover and concealment. Oddly enough, you can hide yourself so well you can't maneuver to see or shoot, but you must have sufficient cover or you will be seen. Just seek a good balance but error on the side of more cover than you think you need. It's imperative that full camo be worn including a good facemask. Think twice about using a hat with a brim. You won't need a brim if you stand in the shade. Get a facemask that fits completely over your head. The hat only adds a brim that keeps you from seeing overhead birds, produces more visible motion when you move your head ad helps make you sweat on warm days. If a mouth call is used, I recommend the use of light camo gloves. The caller can't help from moving his hands and they need to be concealed as best possible. Just in the past year I have started using a camo gun and I can tell you it makes a difference…a noticeable difference. Camo boots are fine but I have never used them. Resist the urge to move or change your position with birds' overhead. If they don't see you they will come back around for another shooting opportunity. Don't 'bob and weave' while trying to get off a shot. Make one quick movement and 'shoot' and resume your concealed position. If you don't put great emphasis on cover and concealment you will never get great results.

(3) Using the right call or caller. There are wonderful electronic calls and great tapes of wounded crows, fighting crows, baby crows, etc. and they work. I don't believe, however, there is a substitute for a good mouth call or caller. I reason I prefer a mouth call is the right call can be made at the right time. Shooting crows during a stand is a dynamic situation and the birds use different calls during the event and so must the caller. The electronic call can't change its tune without changing sounds and that produces unwanted motion. I wish I could tell you how to be a good caller. I can't. I had the great fortune of being taught by an individual who had been calling crows for 40 years. I was 15 at the time and he was 60. Best advice he gave me is still true today. Listen to the crows themselves when they are responding to a caller and try to mimic and/or buy sounds and practice the same thing. Learn their 'danger' call first and avoid using that. I use three calls: fighting call to attract and rally, and distress calls to keep them there. Other combinations will work as well. Just keep it simple. If you are serious about it, learning to be a good caller will come.

(4) Good shooting equals good TBC. Shooting and missing anytime isn't much fun any time. Shooting and missing crows with some regularity will scare away your quarry. Crows aren't like doves. Once they see you, they won't be back in range again and the stand will be over. I believe it is very difficult to call the same crow again, maybe ever, but that's another story. I can't help you with your accuracy, but here are some tips about how and when to take your shot. Crows present a plethora of shots not seen the wild with virtually any other target. Even the best sporting clay range can't cover the crow's aerial antics, but some of their 'stations' can help. Go to a sporting clay range and try repeating the stands that throw birds at you or over your head. The rest of the learning curve must take place while doing 'on the job training', but that's not bad duty. That big black slow moving, low-key target isn't so slow or low key!

Be careful with your lead on the overhead shot. Most of us don't get much practice shooting directly overhead and it is very easy not to lead the target enough. A big misconception is that they are big birds, easy to see and very easy to assume little or no lead is required…. especially when viewed directly overhead…wrong! A crow coming into your position is easier to hit than one flying away. Shoot the approach shots first as they tend to be flying, more or less, in a straight line. Then focus on the survivors as they twist and turn trying to find the exit door.

Perhaps one of the most difficult things to learn (but a must) is shooting through the leaves and branches. We don't shoot through anything except air when hunting almost anything else, but learning the art of following the target through the twigs, pine needles, leaves and limbs is required to be a successful R&G guy. It is simple: just pretend there is nothing between you and the target, swing like you would on any airborne target and let the 300 or 400 pellets do their job. You will be surprised just how well they do. A crow doesn't 'carry' shot well, as the expression goes, and the few pellets that hit whatever is between you and the bird hardly matter. With lots of foliage overhead, it is natural to try and wait for the birds to fly though an 'opening' before you shoot. If you wait, you will miss a lot of good shots. Your TBC will suffer.

If a crow lands in range, shoot him immediately. As his feet touch the limb, he should be absorbing a load of #8's. There is no rule that says a crow has to be flying to be shot. This is not a gentlemen's quail hunt in southern Georgia! A sitting crow will see you immediately. A nice 'puff' of feathers where he used to be sitting is a good mental picture to reflect on later!

(5) Managing your hunt and hunters. In R&G, concealment is paramount, therefore, the fewer hunters that must hide themselves the better. But, also recognize that one gun isn't normally enough to take care of the action. I prefer three. There is nothing wrong with two but four is too many. It's tough to find four crow hunters from the same zip code, anyway, who can shoot.

Is there a best time to hunt crows? Yes, anytime there is enough light to shoot legally. While the do feed and rest during different times of the day, I have never noticed much difference in their response level due to the time of day. If you have a good caller, they will respond anytime.

Don't slam the car door or talk while you are walking to the stand. The crows could be only 100 yards away, will hear you and spook. Talk all you want to as you leave, hopefully about the 'train wreck' you just witnessed! Be patient with high birds. Try to discourage the use of high brass shell in your group as it makes shooting high birds more tempting. High birds will become low birds if they don't see you, particularly of the trees aren't too high. Nobody likes sky-busting and good crow hunting is a close-in sport provided you observe the rules.

Adjust your position (if necessary) the moment you determine which direction they are coming from. Most of the time, the location of the birds isn't known until the calling begins. Tweak your position, before they get there, to maximize your ability to shoot and still stay hidden. Avoid the urge to stand next to a field. They will see you. Be at least 20 yards in the woods.

With more than one hunter, you will need to have an understanding as to who shot what crow. This is necessary to optimize the number of birds you kill. In other words, take the crow that best gives your partners the best chance to get a bird or two during the same pass and so forth and so on. When all of you shoot the same bird when lots are in range, this part of your game needs work.

After you complete your stand, compare notes with the others on how a given situation could have been handled to produce more results. The crow is a smart bird. If we were all changed into birds according to our intelligence, only a few of us would be crows.

Conclusion

Finally, there are different feelings or schools of thought about shooting the 'first' bird that arrives. Should the first one be allowed to come in and bring his buddies with him (as they are mostly right behind him) or should the first bird be shot or shot at? The answer is to shoot the first bird. The key is to shoot not 'shoot at' the first bird. True, if well hidden, one can allow the first bird to come in, circle, eyeball the scene and even land while you are waiting for the rest of the squadron. BUT, you have to be exceptionally hidden. If not, during all this he WILL see you and production from the stand will be diminished. Therefore, shoot and kill the first bird, the others will see him fall, will often follow him down in the direction he fell (as if he was diving to the rescue of one of his comrades) AND he can be used as an authentic-looking decoy. Dead crows in the woods don't 'spook' birds like they may in the open.

Obliviously, (to me at least) there are more reasons to shoot the first one than to wait. Just make sure he is dead. If you miss, there is a good chance he will see the movement required to take the shot. Now alert to danger, (his behavior is different, I believe, and noticed by the others) he will issue cawing instructions of caution to the rest of the flock and TBC suffers.

Special thanks to Crow Staff Advisor Skip Woody